Essex, CT
Back in the 17th century, most of Essex, Deep River, and Chester — all set along the banks of the Connecticut River — were known as the Potapoug Quarter of the Saybrook Colony. Not until 1854 did Essex become a separate settlement, later adding the villages of Centerbrook and Ivoryton to its township.
Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, Essex began to emerge as a shipbuilding center, and by the time the Civil War ended, more than 500 vessels had been launched from the town’s wharves. As shipbuilding waned, Samuel Comstock saved the day by created an enormous ivory industry in Essex and in partnership with George Cheney of Cheney & Company, built piano actions and keyboards, along with ivory toothpicks and other such goods.
Today, Essex remains a community of stalwart Yankees, who cleave to old-fashioned notions of fellowship and history — a beguiling little town you don’t want to miss. And while the warehouses and factories are gone, yacht brokers share space at the riverside, where four marinas are filled with recreational vessels of fancy proportions and crowds of boaters and tourists spend as much time as possible in this superb little town.
The Griswold Inn on Main Street, known affectionately to locals as The Gris, continuously refines its centuries-old practices of warm hospitality and fine foods, its sea chantey sing-a-longs, and a sophisticated wine bar. Across the street, The Black Seal Seafood Grille still serves up awesome Rhode Island clam chowder, seafood dinners, great burgers, and many a tall tale at the always-friendly bar. No one living in Essex or simply passing through has ever failed to stop at Sweet P’s for ice cream. Drift is a coastal-cuisine gem located in the Dauntless Shipyard Marina overlooking the Connecticut River and Essex Island. And not one to languish in faded glory, The Copper Beech Inn, located nearby in the Essex village of Ivoryton, shines like a freshly minted penny — revived, restored, and featuring a superior menu in the restaurant and superb accommodations.
Likewise, the Main Street area’s charming mixture of shops ensures an artfully chosen selection of goods and services. Residents and visitors enjoy the tasteful apparel and services offered by Talbot’s and J. Alden Clothiers. Generations of parents and grandparents have relied on the delights offered at Toys Ahoy. And be sure to take a peek in the Connecticut River Artisans Co-op, featuring a unique selection of art, fine art, jewelry, handbags, stained glass, painted vintage goods, and pottery.
And at the end of Main is The Connecticut River Museum, telling the historic tale of the river and offering cruises aboard the Onrust — a re-creation of an historic 1614 sailing vessel, as well as the Riverquest, an eco-tour boat.
Visitors often find themselves so fond of Essex that they not only head home with snapshots, good memories, and a small souvenir or two but one of the beautiful paintings they have seen at the Essex Art Association on North Main Street.
If you’re staying a while (and even if you’re not), stop by Riggio’s Garden Center in the village of Centerbrook, which is also home to the Essex Gift Shoppe. The Cheese Shop of Centerbrook is any fromage fan’s idea of heaven. And Centerbrook’s Community Music School offers music educational opportunities for all ages, abilities, and income levels — as well as regular performances, including chamber quartets and jazz bands.
In Ivoryton, Incarnation Camp and Conference Center, which has been offering outdoor education since 1886, now includes year-round outdoor educational programs, summer camp programs, as well as an impressive conference and retreat center.
And golfers — as well as non-golfers — should stop by Essex Indoor Golf Center just off Saybrook Road/Route 154, where amazing simulators enable golfers to play 70 elite golf courses from around the world while their non-golfer guests enjoy the 35-foot bar and something tasty from The Grumpy Caddie. Best of all, it’s open no matter what the season or weather!
